This section has been added especially, as an additional benefit for the readers of Total Archery.

We have tried to explain each subject in the book as thoroughly as possible, however, there are always some areas which may raise further questions in the mind of the reader which would benefit by further elaboration.

Please email us any questions you may have, including page reference, if applicable. We would appreciate it if you could include your full name and country of origin. Only your initials and country of origin will be displayed with your question; pseudonyms will not be accepted. Be assured that your details will be treated as confidential and will not be disclosed to other parties.

Question 55	July 23 , 2008	J.K. - UK
Mr Lee, Firstly, I want to say how interesting and helpful Total Archery has been for me. I have used it as the main basis for rebuilding my form after an injury and found it invaluable. However, I have two problems, which I think are connected. If you have time, I would very much appreciate your thoughts on them. Firstly, in practice and with no target, I can produce very smooth shots. With a target, sometimes I can shoot well but at other times I find it very hard to shoot with good timing. I can set up on the point of the clicker but it can take a lot of effort to pull through. Although my alignment is good (compared with the pictures in your book and on your website) and I clearly use my back muscles, I suspect I am unable to relax my drawing arm muscles to let the back take over completely. In competition especially my release is very bad, with the drawing elbow dropping and the drawing hand coming away from the face. No matter how I try to focus on relaxing my string arm I find at full draw I am either gripping the string very tightly or have a very shallow grip. Both result in a poor release, and my bow sounds very loud because of this. Secondly, I am very unhappy with my string picture. If I anchor with a slight side anchor, the string is on the left of the sight ring (I am right handed). It is hard for me to keep the string on the left edge of the sight for consistency. If I anchor a little more around the side, the string then aligns over the sight ring and it becomes difficult to see the gold, especially at further distances. I was never shown how to align the string when I started shooting so it is very difficult for me to learn. Only when I shoot barebow with a high side anchor point can I easily align the string on the riser. When I am struggling with the string alignment I become even more tense. It takes my focus away from the feel of the shot and the first problem becomes worse. I am not overbowed, shooting only 40lbs. I am doing reversal training with heavier limbs (about 50lbs) using a formaster. I very much want to shoot better, and would appreciate your advice on what approach I should take to fix this problem. I have a very good coach, but he is very busy and I haven't had much chance to see him lately. I want to be able to sit down with him and put together a solid training plan to get me shooting to my full potential. Thank you for your time. Regards,
Many, many archers have your difficulty, but shoot well, smoothly and with good timing on a blank butt. However, once the target comes into play people focus too much on aiming. Have a good look again at the KSL Shot Cycle; aiming should ONLY start once ‘Holding’ has been achieved. Most archers never reach ‘Holding’ and pull through the clicker (as you said yourself too), rather than expanding through the clicker. By your own description you do not reach ‘Holding’ and as such you haven’t transferred unwanted tension to your back muscles. How to fix this is another thing. I would suggest, as part of your training routine, you start using a very light bow, like 18-20lbs and shoot very close up 5-10m. For you to be able to feel the shot, draw your bow and close your eyes and concentrate on each step, especially the Loading/Transfer phase, where you have to transfer the unwanted tension in your body to your back muscles. Visualize that your draw fingers are connected to your elbow by chains, which will help to be able to transfer the unwanted tension in your draw hand and draw forearm. You have to learn to expand through the clicker rather than pull through. Once you are able to do this with your eyes closed, now do it with your eyes open. Once you succeed with that put a small target at 20M and try to do the exercise incorporating aiming. Once you are successful with that, try the same routine, closed eyes etc with your normal bow. It should be noted that, besides other factors, your string picture is also affected by your bow grip. However, you should not have to fight your sight picture/string alignment as that will divert your focus. Again, with your current set-up, draw the bow with your eyes closed till you feel properly aligned and anchored comfortably, then open your eyes and see what the string picture is like. Do this a few times and if consistent, keep that as your string picture. String picture is a natural result of your form and best to work on with a coach. You indicated that you wish to shoot to your full potential and as such I urge you to see your coach to work on your challenges.

Question 54	April 18 , 2008	A.S. - Hawaii, USA
Clarification on Question 49: Are muscles used to "flick"? In your answer to question 49, you wrote, "To prevent any of these movements and ensure that the bow arm is kept still as long as possible, the bow hand must flick down from the wrist. This is a deliberate and quick movement and must be synchronized with the release, as such it is called “RSM50/50”. " It sounds as if you're saying we should enlist muscles in our wrist to create a flicking motion, as opposed to just "letting" the hand achieve that position by maintaining complete relaxation in the bow hand/wrist throughout the release/follow through.  Which way is correct?  Use muscles to flick the hand down, or just "relax" and let the hand just achieve the "sit" position through complete relaxation?  The book doesn't address the use of muscles to achieve the "sit" position.  It just says the bow should be allowed to jump from the hand.  Also if we are to enlist muscles to flick the hand down, would you say that it is a vigorous flick, or a light flick in terms of the amount of force exerted?  Should I be "throwing" the bow away?  How do I gage if I am using too much or too little force? You also state that this motion is utilized to minimize bow arm movement.  Upon release, the "snapping" of the scapulae causes my bow arm to drop about 10-15 degrees.  Is this flicking designed to stop that?  Should my bow arm be dropping? Thank you very much for your help.
As highlighted in the answer to question 49, we said in part: ”…. the importance is to maintain body balance throughout the shot. Similarly in the archery shot, balance must be maintained till the arrow hits the target. Now let’s go back now to the Holding phase, which initiates the aiming, expansion and release phases. We are now ready to release and the body is very well balanced, including the 50/50 front and back forces. However, when the string is released, refer Total Archery; pages 120 -123, a force imbalance between the front and back will occur. Unless certain actions take place the bow arm will either move left, right, up, down or even forward, which in effect  shortens the barrel of the gun and of course the accuracy. To prevent any of these movements and ensure that the bow arm is kept still as long as possible, the bow hand must flick down from the wrist. This is a deliberate and quick movement and must be synchronized with the release; as such it is called “RSM50/50”. The purpose of this action is to counteract any tendency of movement of the bow arm and as such to keep the barrel of the gun long and more accurate”.  To answer your question - The flick or flip of the wrist must not be vigorous, as it is a coordinated movement with the release hand and would take about the same time as the time it takes the release hand to travel to the end of its movement during the release. This step also allows you to keep your bow arm still and prevent it dropping. The pressure is on the thumb pad muscle of the bow hand as the draw force of the bow presses against it. We have to remember that the bow hand is not just static as the pressure on the bow hand changes from holding to release to maintain the 50/50 balance in the shot. The flip of the wrist will compensate for the imbalance on release and by flipping the wrist down the bow is assisted to travel in a straight line to the target; the bow is definitely not “thrown” towards the target, but “pushed towards the target by the wrist flip and the residual energy of the bow, as not all the energy goes into the arrow and some of it is transformed into a forward force as well. I haven’t seen you shoot and there could be various reasons, however, the “snapping” of the scapulae on release could be the cause for your bow arm dropping 10 – 15 degrees. Coach Lee has found that snapping both scapulae can cause this problem and as such he would like to see that the bow arm scapula remains in same position from ‘Holding” to release. This will also ensure a constant length of bow arm to bow from Holding to release. This is also part of the concept of the ‘Barrel of the gun’. Further, if the triceps of the bow arm aren’t firm, then control of the shot will be lost.

Question 53	March 31 , 2008	R.T. - USA
I am 59 years old, and generally in excellent physical condition.  I have recently (3 months ago) taken up recurve target archery and have very quickly become addicted.  I absolutely love it.  I have been pouring over your book, and also getting a few coaching lessons from an experienced teacher very familiar with the B.E.S.T. method.  I shoot with some excellent recurve archers who have been helpful and supportive.   I have begun to have some irritation and discomfort in my wrists, both of them, but mostly in thedraw arm.  I am using 30 lb. limbs (just switched from lower quality 28 lb.)and the draw weight seems not a problem for me at all.  So far I have been using moderation, a wrist wrap and the occasional Advil to keep things in check.   Do you have any suggestions for what I might do to address this situation-to improve it or at least keep it in check so that it doesn¹t get worse?  I know form makes a big difference, and my improving form has helped somewhat (page 52 & 53). I wonder if others have a similar problem?  I look forward to your insight into myProblem.  Thank you,
Without seeing you draw the bow it is a bit difficult to determine the cause, however, a common problem is that people draw straight to their chin and their wrist is then kinked putting a lot of strain on the wrist joints.The back of the drawing hand should be flush with the drawing forearm or even slightly convex when drawing the bow. To get a good idea of what the drawing hand and wrist should look like when drawing the string, pick up a rather heavy briefcase or anything heavy with your three drawing fingers and let the weight hang loosely without trying to lift it. Now have a good look at the position your wrist is in, which will show you the most natural and strongest biomechanical position of the wrist when drawing.

Question 52	January 25, 2008	M.M - Switzerland
Dear Coach Lee: When I check my clicker during the transfer-to-holding phase I notice that my draw gets to a still-stand or even a slight let-go (2-4mm), especially when drawing decisively as recommended in the B.E.S.T. method. Is this OK or does it indicate some flaw in my technique? Do I need to slow down at the end of my draw at the end to avoid this let-go? Thank you for your advice.
It is very difficult for me to answer this question without seeing you doing it, as there cpuld ne various reasons. However, let me explain the process as follows: There is a rhythm of Loading, Anchor and Transfer, 1_2_____3. One being Loading, where the drawing scapula is set down and “locked” into position, whilst the drawing hand comes to anchor(2) on the face - the draw scapula must NOT move. You can see on the KSL Shot Cycle Diagram (on this website) that there is an overlap between the Drawing and Loading/Transfer(3) phases and that is where we change direction from a linear to and angular movement, so there is no STOP, just a change of direction. This overlap is designed to enable the smooth and continuous movement from linear to an angular movement. You can liken it to a golf swing, the golf club is going to pause or looks like stopping on the top of the swing when changing direction from back swing to down swing. So that the clicker could stop or pause a short time or even could go forward a little bit. This is good question, because the point of the arrow of some people's will actual stop and sometimes will even go forward a little bit, even though the archer is doing the right core steps. I would need to visually watch you shooting to establish accurately what is happening, but 4mm will be too much and might point to a loss of back tension when anchoring and going from a linear to angular movement.

Question 51	January 8, 2008	B.K. - Germany
Dear Coach Lee, Page 52 in Total Archery – “The string must be drawn back in a straight line from the set-up to approx. 2 – 3 inches (5 – 7.5cm) below the anchor point and not directly to the chin”. In Germany 99% of all archers are coming directly to their anchor point on their chin. My question is, why do I have to bring the string 2 – 3 inches (5 – 7.5cm) below the chin and why can I not  make a draw direct under the chin? Thank you.
“It is very important to position the rear scapula correctly to be able to maximize the use of the stronger lower Trapezius. The reason why people want to draw directly to their chin is because they think of the shot as only a straight ‘push and pull’ action. You must understand that drawing and expansion is not in the same direction. Drawing is linear and expansion is angular (refer to the section “Technique – Angular Movement” for a more detailed explanation). Coach Lee therefore likes to emphasise this difference and break it into separate steps. Thus, drawing down and then to anchor is a linear movement and from this point this linear movement must be transformed into an angular movement during the loading/transfer stage and continue throughout the expansion stage. Also drawing down below the chin will assist in correctly positioning the draw scapula”.

Question 50	November 30 , 2007	Coach - Australia
I would like to share with you an answer I received from one of my archers who lives some 600 miles away from me and who I coach by video link, photos, telephone and monthly visits. I'm quite fanatic and insistent that my archers keep a Performance Journal and when I, again, asked, "You are keeping your Performance Journal up to date, aren't you?" I received the following answer, which delighted and demonstrated to me the great mental attitude that my archer had developed through keeping a journal.
Well you will be pleased to know, yes I do keep my journal, a few actually... just in case I forget to write in my big one, I put notes in my work diary and my personal diary has little notes written all over it.. how I felt , what procedure worked best (what I was thinking about ) how I made the weather my friend.. cos I found that the things I could not change I had to change the way I reacted to them... and that worked.. eg the harder the wind blew, the more I thought of how it was going to push all my arrows into the Gold... instead of wondering if they were going to hit the target or not...  and Oh how that worked!

Question 49	October 11 , 2007	J.M. - Australia
Dear Coach Lee, Lately there has been a lot of talk about the "Sit Down" method you teach and there seems to be a lot of misunderstanding and misinformation of this movement in the release cycle. I have used it for the last couple of weeks now and after a settling in period it seems to give me more accuracy and consistency in my release. Could you please provide some further information as to the thinking behind this movement? Thank you, J.M.
I created the phrase “Sit Down” only for our young kids, the Junior Dream Team, just so they remember the exercise as to “order” their wrist to sit down as they would do to their dog. Of course there will always be disbelievers, but I have taught this movement now very successfully for quite a number of years. The archer must learn to let the bow jump cleanly from the hand. I teach this wrist movement to make the bow jump straight to the target. As a teaching method the shot should be made without a finger sling and the Coach should catch the bow on release. This method is described and demonstrated in Total Archery; refer page 120, photos 62. We must understand that every sport evolves and develops refinement over time. I will explain the “Sit Down” movement, but I prefer to call it the “50/50 Release Synchronization Movement” or “:RSM50/50” for short.  For this I will need to use my analogy of “the barrel of the gun”; the longer a barrel of a gun, the more accurate it will be. Through the Biomechanical Efficient Shooting Technique, the B.E.S.T. method, all the parts of all the steps in the shooting cycle are part of that barrel. Any deficiency in any of the steps will make the barrel shorter and as such less accurate. Assuming that all the steps up to Holding have been implemented correctly we have a nice long accurate barrel. Now, to be completely successful the long barrel has to be maintained throughout the release and follow through. As in all other sports the follow through is crucial for the successful execution of the entire action. It is like a chain, if one link is missing the connection with the whole will be lost. In a way we can compare it to the cocking of the wrists in golf, as part of the back swing and uncocking to generate maximum clubhead speed through impact. However, in the follow through the hands need to be recocked otherwise it would be impossible to control body balance and accuracy in the shot. This is obviously very much of a simplification of a golf shot, but the importance is to maintain body balance throughout the shot. Similarly in the archery shot, balance must be maintained till the arrow hits the target. Now let’s go back now to the Holding phase, which initiates the aiming, expansion and release phases. We are now ready to release and the body is very well balanced, including the 50/50 front and back forces. However, when the string is  released, refer Total Archery; pages 120 -123, a force imbalance between the front and back will occur. Unless certain actions take place the bow arm will either move left, right, up, down or even forward, which in effect  shortens the barrel of the gun and of course the accuracy. To prevent any of these movements and ensure that the bow arm is kept still as long as possible, the bow hand must flick down from the wrist. This is a deliberate and quick movement and must be synchronized with the release, as such it is called “RSM50/50”. The purpose of this action is to counteract any tendency of movement of the bowarm and as such to keep the barrel of the gun long and more accurate.  To do this successfully the knuckles of the bowhand will have to make an angle less than 45 degrees to the horizontal, generally advocated; probably more something like twenty degrees. On release when the bow jumps towards the target the bow must be allowed to jump forward unobstructed and rotate freely without touching the index finger of the bowhand. Further, a lot of archers have too short a finger sling, which will impede this movement of the bow. To check correct length of finger sling the tip of the thumb should be just forward of the throat of the grip at the maximum amount the bow can jump before being stopped by the fingersling. . Further, as you can not open your fingers quick enough to let the string go, neither can the bow wrist down movement beat the string either, so the movement will not effect or interfere with the forward movement of the riser, but will assist in balancing the 50/50 division of forces on release and maintain a long barrel/accuracy. In conclusion please watch the RSM50/50 of the world’s top archers, including all Korean archers. As long as you can understand the biomechanics of the RSM50/50, there is no question.

Question 48	September 30 , 2007	M.M. - USA
I realize this may seem like a simple question, but I have a disagreement with some of the local coaches on this issue. On release of the arrow my view is that the bow arm should not move to the left, but more in a forward motion toward the target while the release arm moves backward and in a small arc because of the movement of the shoulder blade. Others say that the bow arm is also supposed to move in an arc on release pushing both shoulder blades together, creating a arc with the body with expansion of the chest in the process. I have watched people shoot using this principal an they always seem to have issues with the shafts going left. My sense is that the bow arm is already being pushed back where it is supposed to be so that on release the only arcing movement should be in the release arm. In my view the bow arm should be pointed at the target center and pushing gently in that direction. Could email me some information as to which view is correct. Thanks Yours, M.M.
There can be a variety of reasons why the arrow would go left. However, please read carefully Step 9 of the KSL Shot Cycle (partly produced below), as well "Angular Movement". On release the bow must jump freely out of the hand in straight line towards the target. Note: before any movement of the bow arm to the left takes place the arrow should be well out of the bow. The slight movement of the bow arm to the left is caused through the Ratio of Movement when continued back tension is maintained throughout the follow through.The movement of the bow arm to the left must not be a contrived movement, but a result of using the correct technique. If it is a contrived/deliberate movement, yes then the arrow could go to the left. "If the follow-through is natural, the drawing hand, which should be very relaxed, will move backwards and stay in touch with the face following the jaw line for as long as possible. The elbow should go laterally behind with a natural resulting downward movement. The drawing hand must not drop down to the shoulder as part of the follow through, as that will cause the elbow to drop too far down. Additionally, the bow should be visualized moving in a straight line towards the target, although the bow arm will, due to the rotational expansion, move slightly to the left (RH archer) after completion of the shot.

Question 47	August 29, 2007	P.K. - Germany
Dear Coach Lee, First I want to say, that I am full of respect to your work. Now to my question: I think my technique is ok at the moment, but when shooting on 70 metre target I have a big problem. When clicker going off I can't release the shot (I am afraid of the clicker). Instead of releasing the arrow I let down. Sometimes I force myself to release shot, but in most cases I lose back tension. The only possibility for me to shoot some prober shots is shooting on short distances without a face. What shall I do now? Please help me, I have no idea, how to resolve the problem. Thank you
This sounds like a big confidence issue and is a kind of target panic. This can be common with archers who don't know/understand the KSL Shot Cycle and use continuous drawing, rather than committing to the Loading/Transfer phase coming to Holding, prior to the Aiming phase. I don't know what score level you are at, but by the sounds of it your total focus seems to be on the clicker, whilst it should be on the back tension, Loading/Transfer and Holding, rather than on the aiming and the clicker. Please read carefully Step 8 Loading & Transfer to Holding and Step 9, Aiming & Expansion and in particular, "The activation of the clicker is a phase in the shot that must be sensed or felt, not listened for. This may be a difficult concept to grasp. However, if the archer waits to hear the clicker go off to allow the release, conscious thought goes to the clicker and again the connection with the core muscles will be lost". I would suggest you get close-up to the target, blank butt, about 10M. Follow the KSL Shot Cycle, especially "At the beginning of the Loading phase, which commences during the slight overlap towards the end of the Drawing phase, (just prior to anchoring) it is recommended to have a quick visual check of the clicker position on the arrow to achieve greater consistency". You must commit to come to the Holding phase every time, no matter what. Try to focus on the process and forget about getting through the clicker, but focus on your back tension and Loading/Transfer to Holding and expansion and the clicker will go off automatically. Do this some 10 times, but don't release, just let down and start again. Once you are comfortable with the clicker going off because of your back tension and not you pulling with too much draw hand tension, then try very third time to release when the clicker goes off. If this is successful put a blank piece of paper about A4 on and incorporate aiming. When this work start moving back 5M at a time repeating the process. Once you are really comfortable use a large target face, but only shoot for form not score. Your main objective has to be focus on back tension and the clicker is really incidental and must NOT be the focus of the shot. Good Luck

Question 46	August 21 2007	R.R. - USA
I can just go through the motions of the exercises. Or, I can do them while focusing on particular aspects of the shot -- for example, what is happening on the bowside of my back when I am pushing to the target during the Flexibility exercise. Or, during the Structure exercise, what motions are my shoulders going through, and what affect does it have on rotating the scapula? My question for Mr. Lee -- he probably designed them with more than exercise in mind. What does he suggest we focus on when doing them? Thanks,
Question 46A: I can just go through the motions of the exercises. Or, I can do them while focusing on particular aspects of the shot -- for example, what is happening on the bowside of my back when I am pushing to the target during the Flexibility exercise. Advice on website: This exercise is done with an arrow in the bow and for safety reasons close up in front of a target butt. Draw the bow in the normal manner and attain the normal Holding position, followed by a ten second continuous expansion at normal expansion speed. The objective is to draw 1 - 1.5cm (~3/8" - 5/8") past the clicker, without any change in posture. Do 5 sets of 6 repetitions and take a rest of 30secs between each repetition and 2 minutes rest between each set. Additional advice: Firstly, DO NOT push towards the target!, other than maintaining a 50/50 balance between front and back. During the expansion phase the draw elbow should ideally go behind line; the draw scapula goes down further and rotates in, towards the spine, opening up the chest in a circular movement. This is basically a micro movement, but due to the Ratio of Movement, this will be sufficient to come the last 1-2mm through the clicker. However the flexibility exercise is designed to teach the archer to continue the expansion till well after the arrow has left the bow.     Question 46B: Or, during the Structure exercise,  what motions are my shoulders going through, and what affect does it  have on rotating the scapula?  Advice on website: In this exercise the string is pulled behind the neck, see photo. This exercise is more an exercise to give the archer the feeling for the position where both the shoulders should be. From time to time I use this exercise for this purpose, i.e. when an archer has problems attaining the correct shoulder positions. This SPT 4 is also good for warm up purposes, including before the start of competition. Additional advice: Therefore the focus must be on keeping the front shoulder as low as possible and setting the rear scapula as low as possible. This should give you the feeling where the scapulae should be at the start of the transfer phase.

Question 45	July 24, 2007	N.C. - SRI LANKA
Dear Mr. Lee, Do the scapulae come down a bit during expansion? Regards,
During the actual expansion the rear scapula will move almost in a horizontal direction towards the spine, but also down a little bit as well (remember that the scapulae has already been set down at the set-up). Bear in mind that the expansion is basically a micro movement, which is happening internally and you won't see any external movement. Also carefully read Angular Movement and Step 9 on the website for a better understanding.

Question 44	June 16, 2007	J.H. - USA
Dear Coach Lee, I’ve been working on the BEST method using Total Archery and then with one of the high performance coaches for around 6 months. My questions are with regard to the pre-draw and setup positions. I draw a 48lbs recurve bow at 31” draw length. From the mindset I align my shoulders with the target while pre-drawing. When I come to setup position, my draw hand wrist is around 6 inches in front of my face and around 2 inches above my chin/anchor. What do you think is a good pre-draw compared to an archers draw length? Is there a benefit of having a higher setup position if so what do you think is a good point of reference? Thank you
1. The distance from your face depends entirely on setting the draw shoulder and scapula and is dictated by the physical characteristics of each individual archer. Refer to our website, KSL Shot Cycle, which in part states, “The set-up position, see photos below, is achieved not by physically drawing the string back by using the hand and forearm, but by positioning the draw shoulder and scapulae. The photos clearly show what we are trying to achieve. It can be helpful when doing the set-up to visualize the string fingers being connected to the elbow via chains, which will allow for more relaxed drawing fingers, hand and forearm”. Also refer to “Shot Sequence Gallery” and Photo 26, page 50 in TA. Further, as explained on pages 88-90,TA, the ideal draw position really hasn’t got anything to do with draw length. In reality it is related to your shoulder position. 2. During the set-up both shoulders must remain as low as possible and the sight is not to be set any higher than the top of the target at the highest point of the set-up. Therefore, I can’t see any benefit in a higher set-up than pictured in Total Archery and on our web site. Using a higher set-up both shoulders would need to be raised more and then have to be pulled down again, against an increasing bow load.; as such it is not recommended.

Question 43	June 7, 2007	G.T. - Singapore
Dear Coach, I have got a question. When we are holding the bow at full draw, it is extremely difficult to feel if we are using the right back muscles. Without using a bow is there a way or exercise where you can demonstrate using our back muscles? Thank You
One way to check for back tension is to bend your left arm (bow arm, RH archer) on your back and find with your thumb the bottom side edge of your draw scapula. Now put your draw hand on your face, as though you were going to shoot an arrow. Now move your draw arm back, like in a follow through without worrying about back tension. You will find very little movement, if any, of the draw scapula. Now do it again, but this time try to push hard with the bottom side edge of the scapula against your thumb. You should be able to develop quite a bit of pressure there, which should be maintained, right throughout the follow through till you hear the arrow hit the target. The scapulae have to come towards the spine on release. With most archers the scapulae on release will relax and open up. Have a good look on the web site under Technique/Scapulae photos, where David Barnes gives an excellent example, as to what should happen..

Question 42	June 2, 2007	S.R. - U.K.
:"Total Archery" is a great interesting read and has been very beneficial to my archery, although I'm a just little confused now when shooting at longer distances. As my sight is set much lower, I'm wondering when I should pivot the waist to place my sight on the target in the KSL shot cycle. If I place my sight on the gold (slightly above) this will effect my T-shape and effect my draw length as my bow arm is now placed higher in relation to my draw arm Many Thanks.
This is a question very often asked. Let’s look at it analytically. The sight angle between 30M and 90M is in the order of about 6 – 8 degrees, depending on the poundage shot. There will be a need to slightly pivot at the waist at the longer distances and a slight shift of the centre of gravity forward (slightly more weight on the front leg), as tilting at the waist would otherwise move the COG slightly backwards and affect the archer’s balance. However, any tilting of the upper body at the longer distances must be done with the Set-Up and not when drawing back or when at anchor.

Question 41	26th May , 2007	M.S. - Poland
My question is on length of sight extension bar – I shoot a 50lb target recurve bow with a sight extension of 15inches. However, over the last year my sight extension has broken some three times and replacements are getting a bit expensive, as the manufacturer won’t replace it free of cost. I am reluctant to change to a more conventional length of 9” or 12”, as I feel that the 15” sight extension gives me greater accuracy. Could I please have your views on this issue? Thank you!!
I think there are two issues here- one is accuracy and the second reliability. Conventional wisdom has it that a longer sight radius should provide for greater accuracy. However, obviously it will depend on how steady one can hold the aim and the distance involved. Firstly, the radius of rotation of a longer sight bar gives more movement on the target face than a shorter one. Secondly, the longer the sight bar the more sensitive to movement it becomes and the sight pin could be floating all over the target face – this in itself could cause over-aiming and loss of focus. A good test is to see if an archer can hold the sight pin steady enough so that it just moves around in the Gold at the distance being shot. If that is achievable than the sight extension length is ok and if not, obviously it is too long. Please remember that there is nearly always wind and that longer sight bars are more sensitive to movement. Therefore, it depends on the aiming steadiness of each individual archer to establish an acceptable sight bar length/sight radius. On the reliability issue I can not really comment, other than to say to discuss this issue with the manufacturer. Also with your poundage being in the higher range, as is your sight extension, it might be worth examining your bow set up as obviously there must be a lot of unwanted vibration causing your sight bars to break, assuming of course that the sight is from a reliable manufacturer.

Question 40	12th April , 2007	C.W. - USA
Could these principles be utilized for shooting fingers and a compound bow? I would think that most but maybe not all techniques would apply. I have ordered k Lees book from Lancaster Archery for our recurve instructors for our learn to shoot classes. I want to totally reform my shooting technique and I want to make sure I have the correct system to follow. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have started with the band and I am already grasping the concept of the stance, breathing, mindset,draw, shoulder placement aiming, follow through etc. If you would not recommend this system could you recommend another one. Thank you!!
All principles for shooting an arrow with a bow, apply equally, be it recurve or compound. It is one of the human activities where the biomechanical principles must the same. Especially the Loading/Anchor/Transfer steps to ensure the compound archer uses the proper ‘Back-contraction’ technique. This is very important, as with compound it can be easier to loose proper back tension, as the holding weight is of course much less. Particularly with the severe cams used nowadays coupled with high let-off, it could be easy to creep forward if the proper back tension is not used.

Question 39	5th April , 2007	M.R. - Finland
Dear Coach Lee, As a male archer I've never had this particular problem myself and I didn't find any answer to it in the book either. The question is: what can female archers do to counter the problem of bowstring pushing against the bust while drawing? I've seen this numerous times and it seems to cause major problems such as incorrect drawing arm alignment and bow tilting. I also suspect it creates harmful pressure to the string in release. Sport bra and a tight chest guard seem to help a bit but could the problem be better solved by a change in the stance? Best regards,
I'm glad to learn you never had that problem yourself :-). I have come across this particular trouble with some of the lady archers I have coached and basically it is a form/posture fault. Although proper fitting clothing and undergarments are helpful, the problem of the bow string pushing against the bust and causing string interference is mainly because of the archer leaning back, away from the target, and pulling too much with their draw hand to get through the clicker, rather than using their back muscles. When taking up the Set-Up position there can be a natural tendency to lean back away from the target to counteract the weight of the bow, which will worsen as the weight increases during the draw. It is therefore advisable to lean slightly forward to the target in the set-up position to counteract this natural tendency. In conclusion, good posture and correct KSL back tension technique should solve the problem.

Question 38	26th March, 2007	R.R. - USA
Dear Coach Lee: The KSL Shot Cycle II clearly shows the sequence of steps and where there is overlap (for example, between drawing and load/transfer). My question -- is there a correlation between the size of the ovals or steps and the relative amount of time each requires? That is, can I conclude that loading/transfer takes about as long as drawing, that expansion takes longer than any other step, and that follow through is a major step, taking as much time as load/transfer or drawing? Thanks,
There is not a direct correlation between the size of the ovals. However, drawing should be pretty quick, as slow drawing uses more energy. The timing of the loading/transfer should be, with an archer trained in the shot cycle, about ½ a second. However, most archers learning this aspect would need about 1 to 2 seconds to go from anchoring to holding.

Question 37	14th March, 2007	V.K. - Serbia
Dear Coach, There is one thing that you could help us, if you have few moments. We saw all the elements of the KSL Shot Cycle, but there is one thing that puzzle us: During the High Performance Coaches Seminar (Colorado Springs) it was said (chapter 12) as follows 12. Release the arrow. Once the clicker falls, then the release is made. Just let the string go by relaxing the string hand. The string hand will slide off the string and then spring back into the hook made when the string hand was positioned on the string. At the same time as the release is being made, actively drop the bow hand as if telling a dog to sit. Keep the tension in the back throughout the release. This bolded sentence is not quite clear to us, since we can see this maneuver from the video clips of Korean National Team training session, but it is not emphasized in Shot Cycle. Would you be so kind to explain me the effect of this maneuver with the bow hand ? Best regards,
Both the bow hand and string hand should be visualized to be “connected” and the grip release must be synchronised with the string side release. The bow/grip hand of most archers has too much tension and as such the “telling a dog to sit” is a good thing to visualize and actively execute. Not everything is emphasised in the shot cycle as sometimes it is easier to visually demonstrate, rather than trying to explain every item in extreme detail in the shot cycle, which possible could confuse rather than enhance”.

Question 36	7th February, 2007	T.O. - Tel Aviv, Israel
Hallo, I have two more questions, if it is ok. As you said, a harmful corn could develop": it developed on my index finger (of the drawing arm).What should I do? should I keep training with the pain? My second question: "The tip of the elbow, when viewed from the side, should either be in line with the arrow or just a touch higher". The structure of my jaw doesn't allow me to do this, my elbow is high, to high.how can I get it down? After I anchor, I can't move it down. Thank you very much for your help.
No, don’t keep training, as it will just get worse. See you doctor and follow his advice. You have to change the string position on your index finger, see Total Archery, page no. 47, for recommended position. The corn developed because your string was in the joint of your index finger. The tip of the elbow can be a bit higher than the arrow line that is ok, but if too high you can not engage your lower scapula. Make sure when you draw to set the draw shoulder down first, then pull down in angular way to under under your chin to ensure that your draw scapula is engaged, see KSL Shot Cycle Drawing Photo B. Both draw and bow shoulders must stay as low as possible.

Question 35	6th February, 2007	A.S. - ENGLAND
Dear Coach, I am a club archer and appreciate that my level of archery is way below those you normally teach and like many archers I get to shoot once or twice a week yet I still put in some asonable scores (around 550 25M indoors and 1150 FITA) I find that before a tournament I am able to do some warm up exercises and try to get myself in to the right frame of mind with some visionary exercises, but for most competitions in the UK we only get to shoot six sighters before scoring takes place yet despite the body warm up with a stretch band, I am finding that I sometimes need the first 6-18 arrows to get in to my proper shooting routine which translates in to quite a few lost points (and possibly my 1200 star). Tournaments tend to start in the morning and family commitments mean I drive to the shoot the same day getting there about an hour before the start. Can you recommend some exercises I can do easily behind the shooting line to get me better prepared? Best regards,
Firstly, I would recommend that you do some warm up exercises for 5-10 minutes as per exercises shown in Total Archery. Then do some archery specific muscle stretches. Normally, a warm-up butt(s) should be provided at tournaments, but lacking that I would suggest you do some SPT exercises, using your bow (no arrow), but you might have to do these on the shooting line, if the organisers let you.

Question 34	5th February, 2007	R.R. - USA
Hi, Coach Lee introduces a 'transfer' stage where you transfer the load to your back. Question is, where do you transfer it FROM? Perhaps there is tension in your forearm during the draw that is totally relaxed after hitting anchor? Maybe your forearm is NOT like a bicycle chain during DRAW, but SHOULD become like a bicycle chain AFTER reaching anchor? And it is the relaxing of the forearm that starts the transfer stage?
This is correct and all as described in strep 8 Transfer/Holding on the website. One thing though, do not create a static bow arm as there has to be a 50/50 load distribution, back and front. Also read carefully “Angular Movement”.

Question 33	3rd February, 2007	D.H. -RAMSBOTTOM, UK
Coach , I am interested in all your comments about keeping the bow shoulder low, but when viewing the archer on your home page demonstrating the shot sequence, it seems like he is leaning his bow shoulder inwards to get in line, has he got it wrong or should I attempt to do this. Dai Humphreys assistant coach Ramsbottom UK
The bow shoulder must be kept as low as possible and the bow arm scapula is brought inwards to get as close in-line as possible, without rolling the shoulder in/forwards. If an arrow is laid across the scapulae at full draw than the arrow should be pointing to the right hand side of the target, for RH archer.

Question 32	January 26, 2007	R.W. - SUSSEX - U.K.
Coach, I appreciate that the bare shaft shooting selection process should weed out any rogue shafts, but how important do you consider spine matching to be in a competition set of arrows for recurve archers. Have any tests been carried out to measure spine consistency of the shafts selected using this process? Might you be able to put a figure on it, e.g. +/- 0.005", or some such other figure. Many thanks.
The three important factors in arrows is spine, straightness and weight. Spine consistency would be one of the most important factors in a set of arrows. The manufacturers do not specify spine variation for a set of arrows, however, spine consistency of X-10s are very closely matched. I can not put a figure on it as I have never measured it. However, the results of shooting a set of bare shaft arrows at say 30M, about three times, would show up any rogue arrow very quickly. You can measure as much as you like, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

Question 31	January 19, 2007	T.O. - Tel Aviv, Israel
Hello Mr. Lee, I'll be glad if you will answer me couple of questions. The first one: I'm trying to shoot like the you recommend (KSL shooting cycle) and my problem is that as I am starting to draw the bow my chin goes up and it is very hard for me to keep it in it's place. How should I fix it? Second question - currently I'm shooting with W&W limbs and someone said they are too short for me, is it true? my draw is 29", and the power of the bow is 36 pounds. The length of the bow is 66". should I get new limbs? (the riser length is 25") Thank you very much.
1. Most likely what you are doing is that when setting up, your bow shoulder goes up and consequently your chin. Also you probably start to lean away from the target when lifting the bow to counter act the weight of the bow. When setting up make sure the bow shoulder stays down. You will needs a little bit 'push and pull' during the draw, so don't just draw against a static bow arm. Use more triceps to keep down your shoulder like when squeezing towel (50/50 balance). Also speed up rhythm, if you pull the string slower, you will be loosing control. 2. Probably a 68"+ bow would be more suitable for you to prevent finger pinch. You will need only longer limbs because the riser is 25", which is fine. Good luck!

Question 30	January 11, 2007	C.T.V., MD - Spain
Hello, I am a Spanish medicine doctor interested in bow shooting. With the help of other bow shooters, we are trying to translate your article of the angular movement into Spanish, but we have some difficulties with the anatomical concepts you write in the article. I would like to know the scientific names of the following: - chest bones - chest joint When you describe the movement of the scapula to the backbone you say that it is a micro movement(and it looks like it were smaller than the movement of the chest bone to the chest joint, I can't understand that.
Chest bones - Ribs Chest Bone - Sternum During the expansion, which commences once we have reached holding, the tension increases in the lower back muscles creating a micro movement of the scapulae. Even though there is only a micro movement of the scapulae, through the Ratio of Circular Movement this micro movement translates into larger movements through the chest opening up, then through the shoulders and the arms (biggest movement). The Ratio of Movement is the result of correct back tension.

Question 29	December 27, 2006	R.L.B. - Netherlands
To be able to get maximum speed for my arrows I have turned my 46# limbs in as hard as I can. Even though I'm shooting very well I am getting a lot of limb tip flutter. Will this affect the accuracy of the arrow? Many Thanks.
Limb flutter is basically a factor of the torsional strength of the limb. When you watch slow motion video you will note that the limb tip flutter happens after the arrow has left the string. However, the bow's reaction won't be good and will affect the feeling of stability. This might affect a stable follow through to a certain degree. My suggestion would be to back off your limb bolts by 1/2 a turn or if you are really worried about the speed I would suggest to go up 2lbs in limb weight, i.e. if the manufacturer. of your limbs produce 48# limbs. Just remember that the Korean women shoot about 42# on the fingers; as such speed isn't everything

Question 28	December 4, 2006	C.H. - USA
A couple of questions on the Endurance SPT that weren't made totally clear by your website: 1. Exactly how far through the shot cycle is one supposed to go? Do you just come to anchor and hold, or do you fully expand and hold? 2. Where can I find rubber bands that can stretch to a full draw length?
1. Just stay strong at the holding position after transfer, but no expansion. 2. Most sports stores and physiotherapists would have either the strip or round exercise bands. They usually come on a big reel and you can get any length you wish and in different strength, denoted by different colors.

Question 27	November 29, 2006	A.L. - USA
Dear Coach Lee I've had a great time reading and using the KSL shot cycle on the website and have put it to good use. I do however have a major problem, I don't seem to be able to get good clearance on the string as it hits the forearm hard and occasionally get caught under the guard (OUCH!). Must the bow arm and hand be in a straight line with the shoulders? Or would it be a good idea for me to tilt my bow arm forward to allow more clearance, if so by how much should I tilt? Please help me out, appreciate it. Best regards
Without seeing you I can’t say precisely why, but there are common mistakes in people’s form that results in insufficient string clearance. Some of the common mistakes are: 1. The elbow joint of the bow arm should be nearly vertical, which gives more string clearance and also is biomechanically stronger. 2. The front shoulder must stay as low as possible. If the front shoulder is high it will also come more forward and reduces string clearance. 3. The sternum should be low and tucked in. Many archers stick their chest out, which not only produces a hollow back which is bad, but also brings the front shoulder forward and again reducing string clearance. 4. Just make sure that throughout the draw that you keep your bow shoulder, and for that matter your draw shoulder, as low as possible. When expanding make sure the bow shoulder doesn’t come in. Have a good look at all the pictures on the website and he bow shoulder of the top archers. 5. Make sure to have proper tension on the thumb pad on the grip (More thumb finger push towards to the target) so that bow will jump straight.

Question 26	October 25, 2006	D.G.
I've been trying to find out if, when aiming, you should focus on the target and blur the sight or vise-versa. Is there a best way or is it personal preference? Thank you
Below is a short extract from Total Archery page 79, which should be self explanatory. Principle of Eye Control Once more, let us look at the way some other sports do it. Looking at baseball, the hitter will not just try to look at the ball, but will also try to focus on the stitching of the ball. They want to see the ball very clearly, which can be further enhanced by going to a narrow external focus, which will allow a better look at the ball. Similarly with a tennis player, when he hits the ball he doesn't look where he wants to hit it, but he focuses totally on the ball to ensure proper timing and impact and will not take his eyes off the ball. The same goes for a golfer hitting the ball. The golfer has made up his mind where he wants to hit it too and the distance required and then focuses totally on the ball itself, right throughout the follow through. If the eyes are taken off the ball too early, to see where the ball is going, most likely a miss- hit will occur. Equally in archery, the final focus has to be the target; not the sight pin and not the arrow. The eyes have to stay focused on the target till the arrow hits. Many archers try to watch the arrow and that is why they lose control and also the reason why lots of people have trouble aiming off. Keeping the eyes focused on the target till the arrow hits, we call "Eye Follow Through".

Question 25	October 17, 2006	D.L. - South Africa
Many thanks for the wonderful website and book! My question regards the set-up. Should an archer turn shoulders into line before or after raising the bow. My current procedure is as follows. I raise the bow, turn the bow shoulder into line at the same time pulling the draw scapula down into the set-up position. Then I start the draw. I have tried to turn into line before raising the bow and have found that the set-up position does not feel consistent. Thank you
You should have the shoulders in-line as much as possible at the hooking and gripping stage, without trying to force them into line. As a matter of fact with the bow in the hooking and gripping position it would be near impossible to align both shoulders with the target without drawing the bow. Then, when raising the bow the rear shoulder is set back aligning both shoulders with the target. Please study the description and photos on the website carefully. Also study the Shot Sequence photos closely.

Question 24	September 1, 2006	J. - USA
Dear KSL, I agree with everything you have said in your reply, however is it true that training in Korea is different to anywhere else in the world? If a young person were on a training program in Korea at what ages and poundage would they be expected to cope with, also would the training program support these demands. Thank you.
In Korea they start in about Year 4 (9-10 years old) and practice with a rubber band for about 3 months to develop proper form, before even drawing a real bow. From Year 4 - 6 (9-12 year olds) maximum distances shot 20 -30M. Most can score perfect scores at 20M and 350 at 30M on an 80cm face. Bow weight varies, but about in the order of 25-35lbs. From Year 7 - 12 (13-15 year olds) max distances shot 30-50M and score 350 on a small face at both distances. Again bow weights vary, but are in the order of about 30 -45lbs, depending on individuals. Year 10 - (15-16 year old) full FITA distances They won't be shooting maximum bow weights yet, as they are still continuing to develop.

Question 23	August 24, 2006	E.H. - The Netherlands
Since 2 weeks I am studying your wonderful and convincing view/book on archery. As I am a common-style archer the question arises of how to change to the KSL-style shooting technique. As in our club there are no coaches that studied your approach and still teach the common-style approach Ii find it difficult to get myself started in changing my style to the KSL-style. Is there a way to start changing my style in a gradual manner or would it be preferred to start all over again? Kind regards.
We have translated the KSL Shot Cycle in your native language, Dutch, so all coaches, irrespective if they speak English or not should be able to understand what I'm teaching. As a start I would suggest you read the Coaching Newsletter on the website, which basically lists most common errors in form for the majority of archers in the world. Also try to study and implement the diagrammatic KSL Shot Cycle Technique. You can start by trying to implement one step at a time. Obviously every step is important, but 'set-up' and 'holding' are very critical components in the shot and most archers have problems implementing these. As I said before try to implement and focus on one step at a time and of course best would be to work with a coach or another archer who understands or who wants to understand and learn/teach the KSL method.

Question 22	August 13, 2006	A.M. - England
Dear Coach Lee, I have a 12 year old daughter (of a good athletic build for her age) who represents her county on a regular basis shooting the recurve bow. As she is now starting to move up to the next level of her archery. For example, better quality limbs and arrows and increased coaching without making her become bored and turning her away from the sport. I was wondering how you approach the subject of improving the strength and endurance of a young archer without building increased visible muscle mass that would not be acceptable to see on a young archer or child. Are the techniques employed in the book suitable for juniors? I would say not. Any improvement would I believe allow for a more constant and consistent draw and her 'anchor' to be maintained. Her coach has noticed that the draw may not be being carried out correctly at the moment, i.e. too much weight on her top finger and not spreading the load to the index and lower fingers. I believe we can iron this out from sections of your book and the photographs that go with it. We also have the problem that she does not really like to eat or drink in the mornings. Which is awkward when it comes to an early start for a competition. Although she will readily drink 'Lucozade' type products and cereal bars. Could hydration in the morning be a substitute for solid food until she or other archers are ready to eat properly? For her it is probably nerves which is something we will have to overcome by mental training before she can reach her true potential. If you are able to give me any advice for my daughter which I may also pass on to other club members both junior and senior I would be most grateful. Are you doing any seminars or coaching sessions in the UK that we or other club members could attend as it would be most beneficial? Many thanks for your time.
I think there are three questions here : Strength & Conditioning techniques in the book; are they suitable for Juniors? Answer: At 12 years old she is in at a very developing stage, both physically and mentally. Physically he bones are still growing and excessive forces on her growth plates must be avoided. I would suggest that you consult a qualified Sports Physiotherapist and explain the physical action required for archery and the physical weight and draw weight of the equipment and the draw weight changes that will be required down the track. They should then be able to provide you with SAFE archery specific strengthening exercises for your daughter. Could hydration be a substitute for solid food until she is ready to eat properly? Answer: Would you put petrol in your tank before you go on a trip or put it in when you feel like it? Again she is at a very developing stage and I would suggest to obtain professional advice from a Sports Dietician. Explain the situation and take it from there. Are you doing any seminars in the UK? Answer: No seminars have been planned for the UK at this stage. General comment: Please make sure that it is your daughter who is the one who really wants to do archery and at the level you are talking about.

Question 21	July 11, 2006	T.B. - USA
Dear Coach Lee, You mentioned in Total Archery the use of a 'variable delayed video box" in conjunction with a video camera and monitor for use in coaching and self analysis. I have not been able to locate a retailer here in the US that stocks such an item. Do you have an internet source that one of these units can be purchased? Thanks,
The system described in Total Archery, as used at the Australian Institute of Sport, is pretty sophisticated and is in the order of about US$4,000 and is run with dongle controlled software. However, we have located an another excellent software delay program by by SIMI Reality Motion Systems, Germany. The program itself costs 199Euro, approx. US$260. it requires a DV camera, laptop and preferably a 10m FireWire cable so that the DV camera can be placed just about anywhere to capture the archer from any angle. The laptop can then be placed in front of the archer on a table or stool, so that he/she can receive instantaneous feedback. This is one of the best coaching tools to assist both the archer and coach. System requirements * PC (preferably a notebook) with Microsoft Windows 2000 or Windows XP and 256 MB RAM * FireWire interface (IEEE-1394) * Large hard disk to store video sequences * Optional: CD writer * DV camera with FireWire interface, cable Refer to the following website for more details and ordering information http://www.simi.com/en/products/vidback/index.html

Question 20	July 7, 2006	E.K. - USA
Where can I buy a copy of Total Archery in the USA?
Your best bet would be to buy it through the USA Archery Official Online Merchandise Store, see link below.

Question 19	June 21, 2006	D.M. - Canada
What is the best way to approach the B.E.S.T system. I understand core strength is paramount to being able to support a lot of the movements? Should core strength be the first to achieve and then train after with the rest of the technique building? Or is there a way to build technique without having the most efficient core strength. Until you've built your core strength? Best Regards,
Obviously core strength is a very important factor and detailed exercises are given in Total Archery, pages 143 & 144, to improve the power zone. These exercises are aimed at developing and strengthening the core of the body, “the power zone”. The strength radiating from the power zone can be likened to the ripples created when throwing a stone in a mirror smooth lake. The ripples will affect the entire surface of the lake and likewise the strength generated in the power zone will radiate to all parts of the body. Also remember that the power zone or trunk of the body connects the lower and upper half of the body, therefore, any weakness in this area will affect many aspects of the form including stability. Core strength is an integral part of the overall technique; however, it can be developed simultaneously with technique building. You should be able to develop a good core strength within 12 weeks through a properly developed training program.

Question 18	June 16, 2006	A.V. - Australia
Hi,  Could you put me on the email list for any coaching that Mr. Lee may do at the end of the year. Much appreciated.  Also, I am interested in Mr. Lee's testimony - his faith seems very real to him. I would like to read about his journey has he written it down?    Kindest regards,
You are on the mailing list:-). Mr. Lee will  have only one seminar during his Christmas vacation in Australia at the end of this year, most likely of 2 days duration.  Yes, Mr. Lee's faith is very real to him, both in his daily life and in his approach to coaching. In the near future we will be publishing an interview on this specific aspect of his life.

Question 17	June 16, 2006	D.M. - Italy
Hello, I am an archer from Italy and would like to know what the shoes are called on photo 64, page 126 of Total Archery. Thanks
The shoes are called Adidas adiStar Shot Put Throwing Shoes. They have a flat sole and thin hard inner sole and we feel that this shoe provides for a greater stability than the average joggers that archers generally wear, which have spongy inner soles. Refer to http://www.everythingtrackandfield.com for more details.

Question 16	April 25, 2006	V.K. – Belgrade, Serbia
Dear Mr.Lee,  I am coming from relatively small archery society, I am a member of AC «Kalemegdan» from Belgrade, Serbia. Archery society to which I belong is, as I said, relatively small, consisted about 100 archers, divided in 10 archery clubs, mostly recreate archers and just a few persons seriously involved in this sport, within the boundaries of their own capabilities. Unfortunately Serbia doesn't have certified coaches or other experts approved by FITA.  On the other hand by the summer of 2009. Belgrade is a host of UNIVERSIADE and we hope that the Archery shall be a part of the official program to this event. For that reason I strongly believe that in the near future Serbian archery will grow in large steps.  I am not going to say anything new when I state that yours «TOTAL ARCHERY» helped me, as well as many more archery worldwide, and that it is surely one of the most (or the most) useful books in this particular field, specially in situations where other professional help or assistance is not available.  For that reason I came to an idea to translate «Total Archery» from English to Serbian language, hoping that this should be one step in creating environment for significant progress of serious archery in Serbia.  Here I emphasize that this should be the first book about archery in Serbian (excluding Eugen Herrigel «Zen in der Kunst des Bogenschiessens» which doesn't have anything similar with the concept of your book).  Of course I am aware that there are certain legal aspects of this idea and some Copyright issues since I am a lawyer myself (specialized in Commercial law).  I hope that you will find some time to inform me about your opinion about this idea and if you are attending Croatian «Grand Prix», Porec 9-13.05. it will be my pleasure to meet you in person, and maybe discuss about the details. With respect
We will need to refer your request to translate, Total Archery to Samick Sports who currently holds the publishing rights. Even though, we do hold the copyright, but any publication of Total Archery, in ANY language, will need the written approval of Samick Sports. However, in the interim, you might consider to translate the KSL Shot Cycle, as published on our website, into Serbian. We do consider the KSL Shot Cycle to be a crucial component in coaching archery and we would like to publish it on our website in as many languages as possible. Just recently we have added the Italian translation. Sincerely, KSL International archery

Question 15	April 6, 2006	B.E. - MN, USA
Coach Lee - I have been studying your book religiously since purchasing it this past winter. Thanks for putting together such a great piece of work! Here's my question. I have just begun shooting recurve archery after shooting a compound for approx 20 years. I think my form is technically strong. However, one issue that I continue to deal with is that I consistently scrape my chin with the string (receive a burn mark on my chin from the string). Here are some specifics on my form: My stance is open as you suggest in Total Archery. My anchor is slightly off to the side of my chin. If I were to make it any less of a side anchor, I would be anchoring in the middle of my chin. Are there any elements of my form that I can check to help eliminate this issue? Thanks a lot for your help!
There could be a variety of reasons for this. However, there are a few main ones you should look at first. The position of your side anchor sounds alright; however, if the string is pulled too hard into the chin, then on release it could scrape the skin. Also if there is too much tension in the draw fingers on release there will be more string deflection, which could scrape your chin. Check the attached picture and ensure that your head is straight and not tilted back or side ways, as this could also be a cause.